One of the most rewarding aspects of antique and vintage jewellery is the extraordinary variety of stone cuts and setting styles you encounter. Many of these cuts are rarely seen in contemporary jewellery, which is part of what makes them so distinctive. Here is a guide to the cuts and settings you will find most often in our collection.
Baguette Cut
A narrow, rectangular cut resembling a small French loaf — hence the name. Small baguette diamonds are frequently used as accent stones in rings and necklaces, particularly in Art Deco jewellery where their clean lines complement geometric designs perfectly.
Brilliant Cut
The most popular facet arrangement in modern diamond cutting. Composed of triangular and kite-shaped facets designed to maximise light return, the round brilliant typically has 57 or 58 facets and produces the greatest degree of brilliance of any diamond cut.
Channel Setting
A setting style where uniformly sized stones — usually round, princess or baguette cut — are set side by side into a grooved channel in the metal. Stones in a channel setting are not individually secured with claws, and there is no visible metal between them, creating a clean, continuous line of brilliance.
Cluster Setting
A jewellery setting in which several stones are grouped together, typically with a larger central stone surrounded by smaller ones. Cluster rings were particularly popular in the Victorian and Edwardian periods.
Cushion Cut
A multi-faceted cut producing a shape that resembles a square or rectangle with softly rounded corners. The cushion cut has a long history and was the predominant diamond cut throughout much of the 19th century.
Emerald Cut
A rectangular or square cut with chamfered (cut) corners and long, stepped facets running parallel to the girdle. Also known as a step cut or table cut, it creates a distinctive hall-of-mirrors effect and can be used with gemstones other than emeralds.
European Cut (Old Cut)
Popular from approximately 1890 to the 1930s, the European cut features a round girdle, a smaller table relative to the diameter of the stone, and a larger culet. The culet — the flat facet at the base — can appear as a dark circle when viewed through the stone from above, as some light escapes rather than reflecting back to the eye. This characteristic is considered part of the charm of these earlier hand-cut stones.
Heart Cut
A diamond or gemstone cut in the shape of a heart, classified as a "fancy" cut. A beautiful and romantic choice for a sentimental piece.
Marquise Cut
Also known as a navette cut. An oval-shaped stone that tapers to a point at both ends. This cut is said to have been named after the Marchioness Madame de Pompadour, commissioned by Louis XV of France.
Pear Cut
A fancy cut resembling a teardrop — rounded at one end and pointed at the other. The pear shape is elegant and elongating when worn.
Princess Cut
A traditionally square diamond cut known for its exceptional fire and brilliance. Designed from the inverted pyramid of a rough diamond crystal, the princess cut is one of the most popular fancy shapes in modern jewellery.
Trillion Cut
A brilliant-cut triangular stone with 44 facets. Stunning as a standalone stone or as a shoulder accent in three-stone rings.
Millegrain Setting
A decorative finishing technique rather than a cut — millegrain refers to the raised beaded edge applied to a setting using a specialist engraver's tool. The effect resembles the milled edge of a coin and is one of the most recognisable features of Edwardian and Art Deco jewellery.