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Antique Emerald Rings

Emeralds have a rich history and are one of the most loved precious gemstones worldwide.  They are more than 20 times rarer than Diamonds and so can often command a higher price.  They represent royalty, wit, eloquence and foresight with its green colour representing new beginnings, whether that be in love or life. They are also thought to improve concentration and memory.  Emeralds have long been associated with glamour and style and were favourites of stars such as Elizabeth Taylor and Jackie Kennedy, even as far back as Cleopatra who was known to love them.

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Emeralds in antique jewellery

Emerald has been prized in jewellery for thousands of years, and the emeralds used in Victorian and Edwardian antique emerald rings are almost always natural, unenhanced beyond the traditional oiling used to improve clarity - a treatment accepted in the trade for as long as emeralds have been cut, unlike the more invasive fracture-filling seen in some modern emerald stones. Colombian emeralds, with their deep, slightly bluish green, are the most sought after historically in antique emerald rings, though stones from other sources appear across the antique emerald ring market.

Because emerald is a relatively included and brittle stone compared with sapphire or ruby, antique emerald ring settings often protect the stone with a bezel or part-bezel rather than open claws, and emerald-cut or step-cut stones - designed to minimise pressure on the corners - are more common in antique emerald rings than round or cushion cuts.

Styles in our emerald ring collection

Our antique emerald rings span the Victorian, Edwardian and Art Deco periods, from single stone emerald rings to emerald and diamond engagement ring combinations typical of the 1920s and 30s. Vintage emerald rings and antique emerald and diamond rings both feature strongly in our collection, alongside more restrained Victorian emerald rings set simply in yellow gold.

Many customers come to us specifically for an emerald engagement ring, drawn to the depth of colour and historic association emerald carries compared with a traditional diamond solitaire. Our antique emerald rings collection includes both statement Art Deco pieces and quieter, more traditional designs.

Buying an emerald ring: what to look for

Given emerald's fragility, we check setting security on every antique emerald ring with particular care and will always flag any visible fractures or old repairs in the stone itself. Bezel and part-bezel settings generally protect an emerald better than open claws for daily wear.

If you are buying an emerald ring for daily wear, ask us about the setting style - a well-protected antique emerald ring will generally cope better with everyday knocks than an open claw mount, and we can point you toward pieces suited to how you plan to wear them.

Visit us or browse online

Our antique emerald rings collection changes regularly as new pieces come in. Contact us directly with questions about any piece, or visit our shop at 29 High Street, Battle, East Sussex, open Monday to Saturday, 10:15 to 17:00.

Expertly Curated ByVictoria Dahms Victoria DahmsAntique Jewellery Expert
Victoria has 30 years experience curating the finest antique and vintage jewellery
Victoria's Story
Questions

Common Questions

Emeralds almost always contain natural inclusions - a characteristic known as the jardin (garden) that is part of the stone's identity rather than a defect. Completely eye-clean antique emeralds are exceptional and priced accordingly. Emeralds are also typically treated with oil or resin to improve their appearance - this is standard practice and does not reduce value, but it does affect how the stone should be cleaned. Victoria describes clarity and colour honestly in every listing.

Never put an emerald ring in an ultrasonic or steam cleaner - both can remove the oil or resin treatment that most emeralds carry, altering the stone's appearance permanently. Clean only with a very soft damp cloth or gentle brush with lukewarm soapy water. Re-oiling by a specialist jeweller every few years maintains the stone's appearance. Store separately from other jewellery to prevent scratching - emerald, at 7.5–8 on the Mohs scale, is harder than most other gemstones but not immune to abrasion.

Our strongest area is Art Deco and Edwardian, where emeralds were set in platinum with diamond surrounds to spectacular effect. A fine Art Deco platinum emerald and diamond three-stone ring is one of the most beautiful configurations in all antique jewellery. Victorian examples in 18ct gold with diamond cluster surrounds also appear regularly in our stock. Georgian closed-back silver-set examples are the rarest and most exceptional when they come to us.

In many cases, yes - significantly so. Quality antique emerald rings in fine Edwardian or Art Deco settings combine the natural rarity of the stone with period craftsmanship that cannot be replicated today, and they do so at prices frequently well below equivalent new rings. Emerald prices have risen considerably in recent years, making antique examples with attractive colour and interesting settings increasingly compelling as purchases.

Yes, with proper examination. Synthetic emeralds have been produced since the 1930s, and paste imitations much longer. Natural inclusions visible under magnification, the characteristic surface quality of natural stone, and period-appropriate cutting styles all help identify genuine stones. Victoria examines and tests every stone before purchase. We are transparent about our assessment of each stone in the listing and will note any uncertainty.

Emerald carries associations of love, renewal, and prosperity stretching back to ancient Egypt - Cleopatra was famously devoted to the stone. In Victorian jewellery, it represents hope and new beginnings. It has been worn by royalty across cultures and centuries and was a favourite of figures including Elizabeth Taylor and Jackie Kennedy. An antique emerald ring carries these layers of significance alongside the quality of the stone and the craftsmanship of its setting.

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