Natural rubies in Antique Jewellery
The rubies used in Victorian and Edwardian jewellery are predominantly natural stones from Burma (now Myanmar), Siam (now Thailand) and Ceylon (now Sri Lanka). Burmese rubies - known for their distinctive 'pigeon's blood' colour, a vivid red with a slight blue fluorescence - are the most valuable, and antique examples in good colour are increasingly rare and sought after. Natural, unheated rubies from antique pieces are particularly prized: commercial heat treatment and glass filling of rubies became widespread from the 1970s onwards, so a genuinely antique stone would not normally have been subjected to these treatments.
In Art Deco pieces, rubies were frequently used as calibre-cut accent stones - precisely shaped flat-topped pieces that fill geometric settings in combination with diamonds. These baguette and round ruby accents are characteristic of the period.
Styles in our antique ruby ring collection
Victorian ruby rings are typically bold - oval or cushion-cut central rubies in yellow gold cluster settings surrounded by old mine cut diamonds, or half-hoop bands alternating rubies and diamonds. Three-stone rings with a central ruby flanked by two diamonds appear across all three periods. Edwardian ruby rings use platinum-topped gold or full platinum, with finer settings and often more elaborate detail around the gallery.
Art Deco ruby rings are the most precise - geometric arrangements in which calibre-cut rubies and diamonds are used together in platinum settings, sometimes with French-cut accent stones or milgrain borders. The contrast of vivid red against white platinum and diamonds is one of the most striking combinations in all of period jewellery.
What to look for when buying an antique ruby ring
Colour is the most important quality factor in a ruby - a vivid, saturated red is the ideal, and stones that are too dark (appearing brownish or purplish) or too light (pinkish, verging into pink sapphire territory) are less valuable. We describe each stone's colour character in our listings as accurately as we can, though we always encourage viewing in person.
Treatment status is also worth considering. In genuinely antique pieces, heat treatment is unlikely, but glass filling - which became common in lower-quality rubies in the late 20th century - can affect an older stone if it has been re-polished or re-cut at some point. We are transparent about everything we know regarding the history of individual stones.
Ruby rings as engagement rings or anniversary gifts
Ruby is the birthstone for July and the traditional gemstone for a 40th wedding anniversary - making ruby rings particularly meaningful gifts for July birthdays or ruby wedding celebrations. We are happy to discuss pieces that might be appropriate for a specific occasion, and can reserve pieces for viewing if you are travelling to visit us. Our shop in Battle, East Sussex is open Monday to Saturday, 10:15 to 17:00.
