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Edwardian Jewellery

The Edwardian era was a time of abundance for the upper classes, led by the indulgent King Edward VII (reign 1901- 1914). Edward’s love for all things luxurious extended to jewellery and this had a great influence on jewellery fashions of the time. Edwardian Jewellery is often very delicate metalwork that gives jewellery a light and ethereal feel.  Art Nouveau was a strong influence to natural, curving designs that focused on nature and craftsmanship.

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Edwardian jewellery, 1901 to 1910

Named for the brief reign of Edward VII, the Edwardian period produced some of the most delicate Edwardian jewellery ever made, enabled largely by the growing use of platinum. Where Victorian settings in gold had to be relatively substantial to hold their shape, platinum's strength let Edwardian jewellers create fine, lace-like galleries, openwork filigree and millegrain edging on a scale that would simply not have been possible before.

Motifs of Edwardian jewellery favour nature and romance - bows, garlands, scrolling foliage and honeycomb patterns - rendered with a lightness that sets genuine Edwardian jewellery apart from both the heavier Victorian jewellery that preceded it and the geometric Art Deco jewellery that followed. Diamonds in Edwardian jewellery, often old European or rose cut, are set to maximise brilliance against the pierced platinum backgrounds typical of the style.

Styles in our Edwardian jewellery collection

Our Edwardian jewellery collection includes Edwardian rings, Edwardian pendants, Edwardian brooches and Edwardian earrings, most in platinum or platinum-topped gold, many featuring the fine filigree and millegrain work the period is known for. Edwardian engagement rings and Edwardian diamond rings are among our most popular pieces, prized for their delicate, lace-like settings.

Given how delicate Edwardian filigree can be, we check each piece of Edwardian jewellery closely for worn or repaired sections before it goes on sale, and we note any restoration honestly. Whether you are looking for an Edwardian ring, an Edwardian pendant or an Edwardian brooch, every piece in our collection is examined individually rather than assessed as a batch.

Buying Edwardian jewellery: what to look for

If you are new to Edwardian jewellery, the fineness of the metalwork is worth seeing in person - photographs rarely do justice to the openwork detail on genuine Edwardian jewellery. Look closely at the platinum galleries and milgrain edging, which are among the clearest signs of authentic Edwardian craftsmanship.

Condition and repair history matter more with Edwardian jewellery than with sturdier later pieces, given how fine the original settings often are. We are always transparent about any restoration work on a piece of Edwardian jewellery and can point out specific areas of repair if you ask.

Visit us or browse online

Our Edwardian jewellery collection is updated regularly as new pieces come in. You are welcome to visit us at 29 High Street, Battle, East Sussex, open Monday to Saturday, 10:15 to 17:00, to see pieces close up before deciding, or contact us directly with any questions.

Expertly Curated ByVictoria Dahms Victoria DahmsAntique Jewellery Expert
Victoria has 30 years experience curating the finest antique and vintage jewellery
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Questions

Common Questions

Old European cut diamonds dominate - a fully circular cut with high crown and small table that predates the modern brilliant and has a different character: warmer, deeper, with larger flashes of light rather than the uniform scintillation of modern cuts. Transitional cuts appear in later Edwardian pieces as diamond cutting techniques evolved. Rose cuts are used for smaller accent stones in pavé and openwork mounts.

The open, lacy settings collect dust and residue in their intricate channels. A soft brush - an old toothbrush works well - with warm soapy water is the right approach, used gently and rinsed thoroughly. Avoid anything abrasive. Pieces incorporating pearls or fragile enamel should be cleaned with a barely damp soft cloth only. A professional clean by a sympathetic jeweller every few years is advisable for fine pieces.

The finest open platinum filigree work is more delicate than robust Victorian gold. That said, platinum itself is an extremely strong metal and Edwardian construction is generally sound when properly maintained. We always comment on wearability for individual pieces. Many Edwardian rings and brooches - particularly those with more substantial mounts - are perfectly practical for regular wear.

Bows, swags, garlands, and foliate scrolls are the defining motifs - the style is sometimes called Garland style for this reason. Lacy millegrain borders appear on almost every fine piece. Openwork gallery panels, pierced mounts, and knife-wire shanks are hallmarks of the construction. Some pieces show an Art Nouveau influence from the same period, with softer, more naturalistic curves alongside the dominant Garland aesthetic.

Platinum's exceptional hardness and bright white colour transformed what jewellers could achieve. Settings could be drawn to fine threads and delicate knife-wire shanks that would be impossible to achieve safely in gold. Its colour enhanced the whiteness of diamonds far more than yellow gold could, and it required no rhodium plating to maintain its appearance. Platinum was also more prestigious - its use in a piece is a strong signal of quality.

Edwardian jewellery (c.1901–1915) is characterised by extreme delicacy and lightness. The adoption of platinum as the primary metal allowed settings to be made far thinner and more open than was possible in gold, creating a lacy, almost transparent aesthetic. Diamonds dominate - typically old European cuts - with the overall effect deliberately light and feminine, inspired by 18th century French court style.

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